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Tuesday, January 07, 2003

Nottingham, My Nottingham (10)

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46. Stuff & Co.
1 Heathcoat Street, NG1 3AF
(official site)

Nick-nacks! Bijou retro-modern nick-nacks! How ever could we manage without them? We couldn’t, could we? So, thank goodness for Stuff & Co – there to serve our most essential needs.

See also Tableworks (Flying Horse Arcade), which also extends to furniture, and Atomic (King John’s Arcade, Exchange Arcade), which also extends to interior design in general (You want your brand spanking new “city living” show apartment kitted out for the punters? Then off to Atomic you trot, for that de rigeur “minimal” look…)

47. Ye Olde Trip To Jerusalem
1 Brewhouse Yard, NG1 6AD
(general info) (ghost stories) (interior 360 degree panoramic) (exterior 360 degree panoramic)

One of several establishments which claims to be “Britain’s oldest pub”, the Trip claims a lineage dating back to 1189, when dear old Dickie Lionheart and the boys would pop in for a quick flagon of Kimberleys, before sallying forth and slaying Saladin’s barbarian hordes. (Plus ca change, eh readers?)

Like all those Londoners who have never been to St. Paul’s, it was a good many years before I actually got round to visiting the Trip. Even now, when it’s only a ten minute walk from my doorstep, I remain a fairly infrequent visitor. Which is daft, as this is one of the most special pubs to be found anywhere. Carved into the rock below Nottingham Castle, it is steeped - nay, drenched! - in history. No visit to Nottingham is complete without, and all that. Good for a cosy early evening pint on a cold day. Popular with kindly old hippy biker types in leathers and chunky sweaters, who have popped in on their way to yet another Fairport Convention reunion gig.

48. Vegetarian Pot
375 Alfreton Road, Nottingham NG7 5LT

Excellent family-run Indian vegetarian joint, with a takeaway service and a few small tables for those who want to eat in (it’s unlicensed, by the way). Simple and delicious home cooking, at bargain prices. For takeaways, I recommend the thalis: a varying selection of dishes which come with daal and chapattis.

49. Wagamama
Ground Floor, The Cornerhouse, Burton Street, NG1 4DB
(official site, with full menu)

OK, so it’s a chain restaurant. But standards are consistently high, prices are reasonable, and the service is fast and (almost always) efficient. If you need a place to grab a quick meal before moving on to the Warner Village cinema complex upstairs, then look no further. Along with the Laguna Tandoori, this is probably our most visited restaurant of the past couple of years. I recommend the raw juice (“a mixture of carrot, cucumber, tomato, orange and apple”) if you’re not on the booze, and the gyoza as a starter/side-dish (don’t share – you’ll want to scoff the lot).

50. Zullo & Pack
Upper Parliament Street

Trendy hairdos! (You’d be surprised how many search requests I get for “trendy hairdos”, so I thought I’d direct my Googlers to the right place.)

After many years tucked away on the first floor in Trinity Square, Zullo & Pack have recently moved round the corner, into bigger, smarter, more high profile premises on Upper Parliament Street. I have been going there every four weeks or so for at least the past ten years, always asking for, and receiving, exactly the same haircut. Maybe it’s slightly daft to be going to such a high class establishment for such a straightforward haircut – but I’m a pernickety little bugger in matters of style and personal grooming, and Zullo & Pack have always done me proud.

Late additions:

51. The Cock And Hoop
25 High Pavement, NG1 1HF

On the site of the former County Tavern, this newly re-opened pub has reverted to its original name, now that it has been brought under the auspices of the Lace Market Hotel next door. A cosy, civilised, impeccably well-appointed establishment, with real ales (Hook Norton – yum!), panelled walls and table service, which is deliberately keeping its numbers restricted and its atmosphere quietly low-key. A pub for grown-ups in other words, whose stated aim (according to the write-up in our local paper) is to provide a safe haven for people in comfortable cords and cable knit sweaters. Despite owning neither of these items, it is rapidly becoming my new favourite pub in town, especially in the early evening.

52. Opium
Warser Gate

Nothing further to add to my earlier review of this new Chinese restaurant, except to say that it shares its management with the equally fine Pearl in West Bridgford.

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Monday, January 06, 2003

Nottingham, My Nottingham (9)

41. Royal Centre
Theatre Square, NG1 5ND
(official site)

Strong on acoustics but low on atmosphere, there’s a knack to getting the best from this particular concert hall. Firstly, keep your ear to the ground at all times. Secondly, book tickets immediately you hear about them. That way, you’ll be able to secure seats in the zone which affords you the best combination of view, acoustic and atmosphere. This is situated in the middle of the front stalls, roughly between rows F and K. Over the years, Dymbel and I have honed this technique down to a fine art. In fact, I cannot recall the last occasion when I sat anywhere else in the venue.

Oh yes I can. Macy Gray, about three years ago, back when we all still thought she was quite a good idea. Before we all started calling her Daffy Duck and pretending we never liked her much in the first place. What a monumentally tedious night that was.

Warning: even if you’ve left it too late and there are no other seats left, I must strongly recommend against sitting in the upper circle. Especially if you’re watching a comedy act. You’ll be too far away to see the facial expressions. This will effectively neuter all comedic potential.

42. Saltwater
The Cornerhouse, Forman Street, NG1 4AA
(link)

Having given this trendy new(ish) seafood restaurant a favourable write-up before, I find I have nothing further to say about it. Except to mention that I’ve since heard a few mixed reports from other people who have been, particularly with regard to the service. So maybe we have just been lucky.

However, if you’re truly serious about your fresh seafood, then you should make straight for the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar on King Street. The oysters, and much of the seafood here in general, come straight from the shores of Loch Fyne itself, and you’ll have a hard job finding anywhere else that can better them.

43. Selectadisc
21 Market Street, NG1 6HY

In terms of overall selection and price, this Nottingham institution is still the best music store in town - although Fopp has now started to give it a serious run for its money on the pricing front. I have now been shopping here regularly for the past 22 years – longer than at any other shop in the city that I can think of. Back in my DJ-ing days, I even used to get a discount in the (now defunct) singles shop.

However. If you’re not seriously into your music, and are only interested in buying something nice out of the charts, then Beware. The Selectadisc staff are a notoriously offhand, cooler-than-thou bunch, who really do believe that their detailed knowledge of obscure imports turns them into Superior Beings. You’ve seen High Fidelity, right?

The all-time worst offender: the grumpy little feller in the old singles shop, who would completely ignore you if you weren’t a DJ, or if you were buying – quelle horreur! – CD singles instead of 12-inch vinyl. You would simply have to wait until one of the other assistants became free. Yes, the Selectadisc staff will openly sneer at you even if you’re buying something which they already stock. It gets that bad in there.

About two years ago, I finally achieved the ultimate Selectadisc accolade. I was buying a drop-dead cool compilation of obscure dance music rarities from the 1980s, on the day it was released. The assistant took the empty case from my meekly outstretched little paws, and started scrutinising it intensely. As he did so, he began to nod his head up and down. Finally, he looked straight at me (oh my God - eye contact) and made a kind of affirmative grunt. I think he might even have said something along the lines of “that looks like a really good CD.” After two decades of mute supplication in that store (for even when I was a DJ, I was still acutely aware of my lowly place in the pecking order), I finally felt utterly validated as a human being.

In fairness though: despite their curmudgeonly, overgrown-adolescent-music-snob ways, the Selectadisc staff are all, to a man and a woman, intensely passionate about their music. They also run one of the finest independent record stores in the country, which we are very lucky to have at all. In fact, perhaps that's the real trouble: they are all too aware that they’re doing us a massive favour.

Selectadisc also has an extremely well-stocked second hand shop on the same street, called Was, where you will often find review copies of recent releases, as flogged by hard-up music journos. The same rules apply here if you’re trying to sell stuff to them. They don’t just take any old shit, you know. Best leave that Macy Gray album at home, if I were you. Same goes for that Toploader album.

The truly serious dance music aficionado should also head for the amazing Funky Monkey in Hockley. Loads of upfront pre-release 12-inchers on sale here, as well as cheapo CD review copies, and a terrific back catalogue selection. Particularly strong on deep house, as well as cool and jazzy breakbeat stuff. Friendly, knowledgeable and approachable staff, as well. Now there’s a rarity in a specialist dance music shop.

44. Sir John Borlase Warren
1 Ilkeston Road, Canning Circus, NG7 3NE

The Sir John’s Woolly Sporran is the nearest thing we currently have to a local pub, and as such, we treasure it. After a chequered history, which at one point saw the exterior of the building painted to look like a spotted cow, the pub is now run by the same bunch of people who now look after the Peacock on Mansfield Road. And let me tell you: these people know how to run a decent pub. Good beer on the pumps, good music on the CD player, interesting work by local artists on the walls, and a friendly, low-key buzz throughout. Our natural destination for a quiet midweek pint.

45. The Social
23 Pelham Street, NG1 2ED
(diary of forthcoming events - not always kept up to date, unfortunately)

Although it has only been open for just over three years, It is already hard to imagine Nottingham without The Social. My love for it simply knows no bounds. This is mainly because of its uncanny knack for booking all the hottest bands, often just before they go on to make it big (Coldplay, Starsailor and Turin Brakes have all played here as support acts, for instance). For such a small venue, it is quite astonishing how The Social consistently manages to punch above its weight. It also hosts many of the promotions brought to you by those fine people behind The Night With No Name (another great Nottingham institution).

Personal highlights from the past three years: Shack, Six By Seven (before they lost it as a live act), Echoboy, Gorkys Zygotic Mynci, Broadcast, And You Will Know Us By The Trail Of Dead, Horace Andy, Dot Allison, The Blackbyrds, the Webb Brothers, Kathryn Williams, Cousteau, Goldfrapp, the Pernice Brothers, The Libertines, Le Tigre and the Butterflies Of Love. And I don’t think I’ll ever stop kicking myself for having missed The Strokes and the White Stripes when I had the chance.

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Thursday, November 28, 2002

Nottingham, My Nottingham (8)

36. Pitcher & Piano
Unitarian Church, High Pavement, Lace Market, NG1 1HN
(link 1) (link 2)

Yes, I know. It’s a national chain. And in this city, I prefer to avoid national chains wherever possible. Especially since there are so many fine independent operations round here. We are lucky to have them, and I like to support them whenever possible. Which is actually one of the reasons why I’m running this series. Every bit of promotion helps, however small.

However, this particular Pitcher & Piano is just…extraordinary. It demands to be seen. Particularly on a quiet, sunny afternoon, when the sun comes in through the vast stained glass window at the back of the building. For this particular Pitcher & Piano is sited within the huge former Unitarian church on High Pavement, and the conversion is remarkable. The venue manages to feel like an utterly contemporary bar/café, and yet the original ecclesiastical architecture has not been irrevocably tampered with. In many ways, it still feels like a church. To be honest, it’s a bit of a head-f***k. There are people drinking in here! And smoking! And swearing! Maybe I haven’t completely divested myself of my Anglican roots after all.

The place is best avoided after 9pm, especially at weekends, unless you have superb hearing and a voice like a foghorn. Bloody efficient bar staff, mind you – true masters of multi-tasking. They should give lessons to the rest of the city.

37. Playhouse Bar
Wellington Square, NG1 5AF
(official site for theatre)

In the very early 1980s, the bar attached to the side of Nottingham Playhouse was the rather unlikely official meeting place for the city’s wannabe Blitz kids – the original New Romantics, in all their knickerbockered glory. Ten years later, it had become more than a little gay round the edges, and enjoyed a short spell as one of the main “unofficial” meeting places for the more discerning fagerati.

(This was an era when the “official” scene had become so dire that other non-gay pubs would become de facto haunts for a few months at a time. The old Lord Roberts – the Peacock – the Newmarket – the County Tavern – Broadway – the Carter Club – the old Jaceys – and this place. They all took their turn.)

After a dramatic regime change, during which the queens deserted the place in droves, the Playhouse bar was next taken over by the excellent local Tynemill group. It changed its name to the Limelight, and started taking its beers a whole lot more seriously. It became the lunchtime and after-work bar of choice for the many legal firms that are clustered around Wellington Square, and also became the venue for our office’s regular Friday night “early doors” sessions. In fact, it remains so to this day.

This year, ownership of the bar changed hands again, with the Scruffys group taking over from Tynemill, and the Limelight title being dropped. The plan is now to develop the underused restaurant part of the premises. The gruff and curmudgeonly – yet strangely loveable – “real ale” bar staff have now been replaced by sweetly smiling “customer friendly” types – who, it has to be said, have yet to learn some of the finer points of consistently delivering the perfect pint. Now that they’re gone, we rather miss the gruff and curmudgeonly lot.

In the summer, the large courtyard outside the bar is one of the best places in the city for alfresco boozing. This is also the site of Anish Kapoor’s huge Sky Mirror installation, which was unveiled last year amidst much controversy, and rumours that the reflection of the sun’s rays from the giant concave mirror would instantly incinerate passing pigeons. It’s an undeniably impressive structure, although as a Kapoor fan, I don’t think it’s one of his strongest pieces. Best viewed at dusk, as the lights come on underneath the structure and the whole effect of the piece alters.

38. Pretty Orchid
12 Pepper Street, Bridlesmith Gate, NG1 2GH

There are three Thai restaurants in town, and this is our clear favourite. Proper, authentic stuff, cooked by proper, authentic Thai chefs. Top tip: forget the boring old set menus, and dive straight into the a la carte. Welcoming atmosphere; friendly, jolly service.

39. Rob’s Record Mart
Hurts Yard, NG1 6JD

Like all the best second-hand record shops, Rob’s is a complete mess. In fact, the mess seems to get worse with each passing year, as ever increasing quantities of musty old vinyl get squeezed into the groaning racks and boxes. Soon, you’ll scarcely be able to move in there.

A vinyl junkie’s paradise, in other words. When I needed to assemble a decent collection of soul/funk/disco singles for DJ-ing purposes, Rob’s delivered in spades. Every single I wanted seemed to pop up there at some time or other, usually for around 50p a pop. I have spent many happy hours in that place – although my visits are much less frequent these days. Nice to know it’s still there, though.

40. Rock City
8 Talbot Street, NG1 5GG
(official site)

I’ve been going to gigs at Rock City ever since the opening night in autumn 1980 (The Undertones, supported by Orange Juice). As a live music venue for middle-ranking acts, it has always delivered. There’s just something about the place which works, despite the sticky carpets and the scrums at the bar (although you do need to establish a good regular vantage point – I have mine, but I’m not sharing that particular piece of knowledge with the world at large).

Now, after a worrying period in which the booking policy veered far too heavily towards Rock-With-A-Capital-R, Rock City is firmly back on the circuit for all the acts which I’m interested in. I was there last week for Richard Ashcroft, and I’ll be back next week for Groove Armada and for Badly Drawn Boy. And it’s less than 15 minutes’ walk from our front door. I am truly blessed.

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Wednesday, November 27, 2002

Nottingham, My Nottingham (7)

31. Needs Furniture Workshop
3-5 Hockley, NG1 1FH
(link)

Custom-made furniture for kitchens and bathrooms, which tends towards the traditional, but with a contemporary twist. We used this place quite heavily a couple of years ago (when we were kitting out the cottage kitchen) and were mightily impressed. Glowing customer testimonials can be supplied on demand…

32. NG1
76-80 Lower Parliament Street, NG1 1EH
(official site) (link #2)

Nottingham’s largest gay club in nearly 20 years, the likes of which haven’t been seen round here since the demise of the legendary Part Two. Two dancefloors at weekends: one commercial ‘n cheesy, the other dead ‘ard, like. Brings them flocking in from miles around, and has helped put Nottingham back on the map, otpotss-wise. Also very popular on Wednesdays, with a noticeably younger crowd. But beware of the podiums. I’m sure they’re gonna getcha, yeah.

NG1 also hosts wildly popular Poptastic nights on the last Friday of each month, and is now starting to run regular School Disco nights as well.

33. Obi
King Johns Arcade, Bridlesmith Gate, NG1 2GR

What should all well-meaning fly-mos buy for their friends’ kids? Why, gorgeous designer kiddie-togs, of course! Because you’re never too young to look groovy. We love shopping here.

34. Paul Smith
10 Byard Lane, NG1 2GJ
(official site)

The original Paul Smith shop, which has stood at this address for over thirty years. These days, there’s less of the smart formal stuff in the shop, and more of the casual jeansy stuff (although you can find a lot of the smart formal stuff in Flannels, Limeys and House Of Fraser). Paul Smith is a bit of a local hero, and his clothes still cut the mustard. Classics-with-a-twist? Bring ‘em on!

35. The Peacock
11 Mansfield Road, NG1 3FB

A fine old institution of a pub, which has consistently maintained its high standards for as long as I can remember. Beautiful etched glass windows. Tasteful Victorian interiors. Warm, comfortable and cosy. The sort of place you can go to for long conversations with friends who don’t like going to city centre pubs much anymore. Attracts a relatively academic, intellectual crowd, especially in the quiet bar (complete with bells on the walls for service). Well, a Guardian-reading crowd, at any rate. Also slightly gay-ish round the edges. Or maybe that’s just when we’re there.

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Tuesday, November 12, 2002

Nottingham, My Nottingham (6)

26. Lord Nelson
11 Thurgaton Street, Sneinton, NG2 4AG

Although this delightfully unspoilt pub has been here since the dawn of time, we only discovered it for ourselves over the summer. A traditional “local” of the old school – and as such, one of a rapidly dying breed. Best of all, there’s a fully enclosed and substantial beer garden, which lets you temporarily forget that you’re in Nottingham altogether. As good beer gardens are few and far between in the city, this ranks as something of a hidden treasure.

27. Lord Roberts
24 Broad Street, NG1 3AN

Over the years, I have probably visited the Lord Roberts more than any other pub in Nottingham. Once upon a time, it was another traditional “local”, which attracted a strange mixture of elderly working class regulars, and “arty types” from the Broadway cinema next door. Gradually, this mixture was added to by an increasing proportion of gay men. Eventually, about five or six years ago, the pub changed hands. After being completely gutted and re-fitted from scratch, it re-opened with a gay landlord and staff. The elderly regulars loyally trooped back (and were welcomed by the new management), but still found themselves increasingly squeezed into corners by the large new influx of gay men. After a while, the pub finally dropped the pretence of being “mixed”, and became known as an officially gay venue.

The music is quieter here than in the other gay pubs, the atmosphere more pub-like and less bar-like (with some decent beer on tap), the clientele somewhat older and more relaxed, and the cruising discreet to the point of non-existence. As such, it remains a favourite destination – mainly because you are nearly always guaranteed a seat. God bless the dear old Roberts.

28. Luna
23 George Street, NG1 3BH

Purveyors of original Fifties and sixties retro goods, including coloured glassware, telephone sets and lighting. Small but well-stocked. Elisabeth’s kind of place, without a doubt. See also the splendidly named Daphne’s Handbag on Mansfield Road.

29. Mandarin
23 Hockley, NG1 1FH

Our favourite Chinese restaurant in town - although the Man Ho on Pelham Street gives it a good run for its money on Sunday lunchtimes, with an absolutely superb (and dirt cheap) selection of dim sum.

Okay, so the dining room looks like a mid-1970s hotel banqueting suite. Never mind about that. If you can persuade the owners (Alan and Wendy) to let you loose on the Chinese menu (which isn’t even written out in English), and if you’re an adventurous carnivore without an ounce of squeamishness, then you’re in for a real treat.

Alan and Wendy sometimes take a good deal of persuading, mind you. They find it difficult to appreciate that there are any English people who really want to eat this stuff (with good reason, it has to be said), and will still try and guide you towards the sweet-and-sours and the black bean sauces. Be politely persistent. It’s worth it.

30. The Maze
270 North Sherwood Street, NG1 4EN

A nifty little live music venue, tucked away round the back of the excellent Forest Tavern on Mansfield Road. In amongst the usual “tribute bands” which fill their schedules, this is also where you’ll find all the latest obscure acoustic Americana, as championed by the likes of Uncut magazine. Ryan Adams played his first ever UK gig here, almost exactly two years ago. On such nights, the venue attracts an attentive, respectful crowd of serious musical aficionados. Like me and Dymbel, in other words…

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Thursday, November 07, 2002

Nottingham, My Nottingham (5)

21. Lace Market Hotel
29-31 High Pavement, The Lace Market, NG1 1HE
(official site)

First, a quick declaration of interest: we’re friendly with the guy who runs the place. But oh, what a great job he has done since he took it over. The Lace Market Hotel is one of those rarities: an unashamed “boutique hotel” which actually delivers on its promises – with substance as well as style, and with nary a whiff of soulless corporate blandness. It is therefore no wonder that the Good Hotel Guide 2003 has just nominated the place as one of its top ten “cool city hotels”. It’s also the place where the celebs stay when they’re playing Nottingham Arena (which is only a few hundred yards away), and it’s the place where K puts all of his business visitors. And no, I’m not getting paid for writing this.

The rooms are, frankly, gorgeous. The bar has graduated from Flash Trash Central to being a comfortable and civilised meeting place. The restaurant (Merchants) has improved beyond measure, especially the once hopeless service. In other words – we like.

22. Laguna Tandoori
43 Mount Street, NG1 6HE

The Laguna is one of the two best Indian restaurants in town – the other being the Saagar, up the Mansfield Road in Sherwood. However, while the Saagar is let down by perennially surly service, the Laguna extends the friendliest welcome imaginable. Over the years, we have consistently eaten there more frequently than at any other restaurant in town, and the place has never let us down yet. And if you live nearby, they’ll also do home deliveries. What utter bliss.

Within the next few days, the Laguna will be facing stiff new competition from a large, slick looking outfit called “4550 Miles From Delhi”. This is actually opening up right next door to it, on the site of the old Hearty Goodfellow pub (which used to have a gay bar in the basement, permanently marked with a sign saying “Private Party”). Two or three doors further down Maid Marian Way, there’s also the equally large (and not at all bad) Mem Saab restaurant, complete with live cocktail lounge music on selected nights. However, we know where our loyalties lie – and the Laguna is a place which does inspire loyalty amongst its long-standing regulars. As such, it really shouldn’t have too much to worry about. At the end of the day, quality is sure to win through.

23. Lakeside Arts Centre
University Park, NG7 2RD
(official site)

An art gallery, a recital hall and a small-ish theatre, with a café and a surprisingly OK restaurant attached – all situated on the Nottingham University campus, down by the lake. Standards are high here, with very little pandering to bums-on-seats popularism – and yet, the seats remain permanently bum-filled. High culture has clearly found its niche here, and hurrah for that.

24. Limeys
58 Bridlesmith Gate, NG1 2GP

Our favourite clothes shop in town – not for the casual stuff on the ground floor (which is all a bit too “Armani Jeans” for my taste), but for the superb collection of dandified clobber on the first floor. The people who work up here are that rarest of breeds in Nottingham clothes shops: people who understand and care about the goods they sell. If something works, they’ll tell you. If it doesn’t work, they’ll still tell you just the same – and they’ll tell you why it doesn’t work, and if you like, they’ll make sensible alternative suggestions. Which is, of course, the smartest sales technique of all. If you can inspire trust and confidence, then repeat business will look after itself. That way, we’re all happy.

25. The Lincolnshire Poacher
161-163 Mansfield Road, NG1 3FR
(official site)

Sadly, most of Nottingham’s best Real Ale pubs are situated on or around the Mansfield Road, between the Victoria Centre at the bottom and the Forest at the top. I say “sadly”, because this just puts them out of comfortable walking distance from Diva Towers, meaning that we don’t spend nearly as much time in decent pubs as we used to in our Sherwood days. Of these pubs, the Lincolnshire Poacher has to be the most popular. In fact, it can sometimes be too popular for its own good. As a result, I tend to prefer it for “early doors” drinking on weekdays, when you can still get a seat, and half the clientele are still quietly reading their newspapers on their own. You can get a particularly nice drop of Bateman’s in here.

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Wednesday, November 06, 2002

Nottingham, My Nottingham (4)

16. Gray & Bull
5 Pelham St, NG1 2EH

Our favourite opticians in town. The best selection of frames, and the best service. The only drawback: a lot of the good frames are in the window display, which makes trying them on a rather more complicated process than it needs to be.

17. Hart’s Restaurant
Standard Court, Park Row, NG1 6GN
(official site)

Despite mounting opposition (from Merchants, World Service, The Victoria Club and Hotel Des Clos in particular), Hart’s can still be considered as Nottingham’s best restaurant. And as the venue for my fortieth birthday party back in February, it will always have a special place in my affections. Particularly good at lunchtimes, when the light pours into the main dining room and the mood is more relaxed. Not cheap, but you do pay a fair price for the quality that’s on offer. We await the construction of the “boutique hotel” next door with interest.

18. Hotel Des Clos
Old Lenton Lane, NG7 2SA
(official site)

Situated in the most unpromising of locations (buried amongst the semi-industrial sprawl underneath the A52 flyover), the restaurant inside Hotel Des Clos actually turns out to be one of Nottingham’s best kept secrets. The smallish dining room is smart and comfortable, and the service has personality, wit, and a refreshingly unforced charm. The young chef (who started out in Ashbourne before winning the Roux Scholarship in 1999) is clearly a rising star, so this is your chance to catch him before he goes Michelin-mega.

19. The Irish Centre
2-4 Wilford Street, NG2 1AA

The traditional student stomping ground for many a long year, The Irish seemed to be attracting a somewhat older crowd when I re-visited it not so long ago, after a gap of around 15 years. Other than that, the place hadn’t changed one bit. I don’t think there had even been so much of a lick of paint. Which was reassuring, but also rather eerie.

Essentially, The Irish (an unapologetically back-to-basics, spit-and-sawdust kind of joint) is the very embodiment of unchanging timelessness in a world of ever-shifting certainties. It’s good to know that there will always, always, be at least one dancefloor where the rugby club will still be stomping their feet in an extended circle (Come on, Eileen ta-loora-aye…) and student nurses will still be squiffily sashaying along to the strains of the Grease Megamix (Tell me more, tell me more, did he get very far...)

20. Just The Tonic
The Old Vic, Fletcher Gate, NG1 2FZ
(official site)

A long-running Sunday night comedy club with an excellent reputation, which shows up Jongleurs as the joyless corporate hell-hole which it truly is. All the best names in stand-up play here sooner or later (and one of these days, I really am going to catch that Johnny Vegas before the gig sells out). Particularly good for pre-Edinburgh warm-up gigs over the summer.

As for the Old Vic itself: it’s a fine old venue with an ornate Victorian interior, which over the years has played host to some of the best performances I have seen in the city. Who could forget The Bhundu Boys, or James in the early "indie" years, or Dagmar Krause singing Brecht & Weill, or the Trio Bulgarka, or the Joan Collins Fan Club, or Henry Rollins doing one of his spoken word shows…or indeed, DJ Mike doing one of his legendary benefit nights in the late 1980s?

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Monday, October 21, 2002

Nottingham, My Nottingham (3)

11. The Cookie Club
22 St James's Street NG1 6FG
(official site)

To tell the truth: since it moved from its old location (on Pelham Street), I have yet to visit the Cookie Club at its new home. So what is it doing in my list?

The reason is this. From 1986 to 1995 (or thereabouts), 22 St James’s Street was the home of Nottingham’s one gay club. It started life as Club 69, then was reborn as L’Amour in early 1987, and as Nero’s around 1990, before “going straight” as Deluxe around 1995.

As Club 69 and as L’Amour, the venue was such a vile pit that I could almost never bring myself to visit it. However, this did not stop me from launching my DJ-ing career there, in attempt to create an “alternative” night for people who felt similarly pissed off with the place.

As Nero’s, there was something of an improvement. The music policy moved away from relentless, rancid, dated Hi-NRG, the décor began to approach something vaguely reasonable looking, and the clientele ceased to look quite so uniformly miserable, alienated and desperate. This was good enough for me. I became a regular, who was generally to be found bopping away in the semi-darkness of the tiny little “serious dancers” corner near the DJ booth. Or else thrashing about in the middle of the smoke-filled main floor, making new friends (including a blonde, fresh faced Chig, one Saturday night in the spring of 1990).

The anthems? Shocked, Finally, Everybody's Free. Rhythm Is A Mystery, Rhythm Is A Dancer. The DOP’s “(Rocking To The Rhythm Of A) Groovy Beat”. Inner City’s “Pennies From Heaven”. Luther & Janet’s “The Best Things In Life Are Free”. Atlantic Ocean and Tony Di Bart and Alex Party (“Read My Lips”). Fairly obvious stuff, for fairly innocent times – before the first visits to FF and Trade, before the real madness set in.

The Cookie Club mainly plays retro indie hits to non-clubby former students, and as such is meant to be a good night out. But it will always be sleazy old Nero’s to me.

12. Creation Florists
80, Derby Rd NG1 5FD

In amongst the many antique shops on this stretch of Derby Road (which connects Maid Marian Way to Canning Circus) lies this excellent florists, which provides most of the large displays for the city’s more swish bars and restaurants. If you want Bold & Dramatic rather than Tasteful & Twee to go in that nice vase in your front room, then Creation is the place to go.

13. Flannels
34- 36 Bridlesmith Gate NG1 2GQ

Formerly Cruise Flannels, and now expanded into the floor below, this place is Label City. Gucci, Prada, Helmut Lang. D&G and Comme. Armani and Versace. Et cetera, et cetera, et cetera. All of which is badly undermined by the clueless wideboy staff who work there (with a couple of notable exceptions). If you’re selling exquisitely beautiful clothes, then you really do need to understand clothes, rather than merely being in thrall to their labels.

14. Fopp Records
The Frontage, Queen Street, NG1 2AR
(official site, with map)

I’ve written about Fopp before. A very dangerous place indeed. And also the ideal place to help you fill in the “back catalogue” gaps in your CD collection. Just try and walk past those “everything for £5” racks empty-handed…

15. Gauntleys
4 High Street, Exchange Arcade, NG1 2ET
(official site)

I’ve also written about Gauntleys before, at some length, back in the very early days of this blog. A first class vintners, but quite terrifying for the casual browser.

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Monday, October 14, 2002

Nottingham, My Nottingham (2)

6. The Boat Club
Trentside, West Bridgford, NG2 5FA

Years and years and years ago, the Boat Club hosted loads of gigs, particularly of the punk/new wave/post-punk variety. Or so I’m told – it was before even my time. Then, for twenty years or so, no bands played at all, as the venue reverted to being a boat club pure and simple (it’s beside the river Trent, between Trent Bridge and the Nottingham Forest ground, where all the rowers hang out).

However, the last couple of years have seen the premises reborn as an occasional venue for rock gigs, mainly due to the efforts of the musically adventurous and extremely wonderful Night With No Name. And what do you know? As a venue for live music, it works perfectly. Basic and unpretentious, and agreeably shabby, and a bit sweaty round the edges, with a good acoustic and a nice high stage (meaning that shorter people can enjoy the bands as well). The beer also is quite astonishingly cheap, with the pumps manned by terribly nice, polite rowing types who aren’t much used to this rasping rock and roll malarkey. It’s also amusing to register the expressions on the faces of the bands, as they realise that yes, they really are playing at a boat club.

7. Broadway Cinema
Broad Street, NG1 3AL
(official site)

For many years now, the received wisdom about Broadway (formerly the Nottingham Film Theatre) has been that “it’s the biggest independent cinema outside London.” Whether this is in size or in turnover, I couldn’t say. However, Broadway remains a highly successful and much loved Nottingham institution, which has survived even the recent opening of the gigantic, super-slick Warner Village complex just a few blocks away.

The key to its success? A sharp, spot-on booking policy, with all the latest must-see art-house flicks screened soon after their release (I must have seen just about every Almodovar film ever made in that place). A great building, full of character, with something of a “cinema club” feel to it; there’s a tangible sense of “belonging” about its audience of loyal regulars. Plus there’s a civilised café-bar, mercifully wanker-free even at weekends, with decent Belgian beers on tap, and changing exhibitions on the walls.

Finally, I will always love Broadway because we hired it as part of our tenth anniversary celebrations, for a special screening of Breakfast At Tiffany’s. Ah, memories.

8. Bunker’s Hill
36-38 Hockley Nottingham NG1 1FP
(link 1) (link 2)

Down at the very bottom of Hockley, next door to the Ice Stadium, the Bunker’s Hill is a real ale drinker’s paradise, with a vast and ever-changing selection, and a Proper Pub of the old school, popular with an easy-going thirtysomething and fortysomething crowd. This is slightly at odds with the room on the first floor, where incredibly obscure bands regularly play (including the awesome Pansy Division, three or four years ago). They really ought to do something about those lurid green walls, though.

9. Canalhouse Bar & Restaurant
48-52 Canal St Nottingham
(link)

Down by the canalside, on the way to the railway station, there has been a massive redevelopment in the last few years, with most of the old buildings razed to the ground and shiny new ones erected in their place. The whole area has been a huge success, with all of its bars noisily packed to the rafters every weekend with hordes of affluent twentysomething punters. Which is all well and good, but not my scene at all.

The one exception is the Canalhouse, situated in the old Canal Museum, with an inlet from the canal reaching right into the middle of the large indoor bar area. There’s decent beer, a proper pub atmosphere, more space to manoeuvre, and a more laidback, less hysterical clientele. The waterfront seating area is a great place to hang out on a warm afternoon or evening, and there’s also a smartish restaurant upstairs (variable, but generally high standard if a little over-priced).

10. Canopy
14 Flying Horse Walk Nottingham NG1 2HN
(official site)

A luggage queen’s paradise. Luggage galore! Bags and bags of beautiful bags! Suitcases to swoon over! Luxury leather goods to die for! And the politest, most helpful, most knowledgeable staff of any shop in town. Ooh, the boyfriend and I love Canopy all right…

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Wednesday, October 09, 2002

Nottingham, My Nottingham (1)

1. @D2
74 Lower Parliament St, NG1 1EH
(link 1) (link 2)

In ye olden tymes, @D2 was known as the Admiral Duncan. It was a grubby, grotty, sleazy, cruisy dive, but it had atmosphere, and we all loved it despite ourselves. After the closure of the Kitsch club, and before the opening of NG1, the “Dunnie” was the only gay venue in town with a late licence. Accordingly, everyone flocked there in droves, queuing for up to half an hour outside, in order to slosh about to “Insomnia” in puddles of spilt lager and broken glass on the cramped little dancefloor.

That’s all a fading memory now, though. After a radical refit, the shabby old Admiral Duncan was reborn as the sleek new @D2 – a symphony of minimal mauves and whites, with curved seating booths where the old urinals used to be, and smart new unisex toilets. Only the very young and the very inebriated dance there now; partly because @D2 shuts at midnight (by which time NG1 is in full swing next door), and partly because – in the new spirit of 21st century openness – the blacked out windows have now been un-blacked, meaning that passers by on the street outside can now see you merrily bopping away inside. Which you don't want.

Something of the old Admiral Duncan atmosphere still remains, though. At weekends, @D2 is the liveliest and busiest of the Nottingham gay bars, with that pre-clubbing anticipatory buzz about it.

2. Angel Row Gallery
Central Library Building, 3 Angel Row, NG1 6HP

Don’t you hate the way that people use the word “space” in that very particular way, when describing galleries and theatres? Well, I’m going to do just that.

Situated next to the main library, the Angel Row Gallery is a capacious and thoroughly wonderful exhibition “space” for contemporary art, with an excellent track record behind it. Gillian Wearing, Anish Kapoor and, ooh, loads more people who I can’t remember right now, have all exhibited here. Sometimes it’s lazy crap, sometimes it’s inspiring genius, sometimes it’s halfway between the two – but every exhibition there is always worth checking out, if only to leave a piercingly accurate little comment in their guest book.

Honorary mentions also go to the Bonington Gallery (at Trent University), which doesn’t get used nearly enough, and to the upstairs exhibition “space” inside Nottingham Castle, which is really putting itself on the map these days (most notably with a major Warhol exhibition earlier in the year).

3. Aspecto Clothing
Long Row, NG1 2HW

My favourite place in town for shoes upstairs (Campers, Vans and the like) and casual clothing downstairs (Carhartt, Schott and the like).

4. Atlas Delicatessen
9 Pelham St, NG1 2EH

Having finally said goodbye to Pret A Manger (the sandwiches may be lovely and the male employees may be gorgeous, but a soulless identikit chain is still a soulless identikit chain, and I Just Don’t Approve), I now spend all my lunchtimes in this truly excellent (if pricey) little deli. Best cup of coffee in town. In fact – dare I say it? – the only properly made lattes and espressos in town. (Honestly, you don't know what Hell it is to be me sometimes.)

5. Bluu
5 Broadway, Lace Market, NG1 1PR
(official site) (Observer review)

All hail The New Nottingham! This late-licensed bar is where you’ll find all the smartly dressed City Living Apartment set, knocking back the cocktails and talking over the top of the sometimes excellent live jazz in the basement. Philistines! Hey, but you’ve got to have somewhere to wear your trendy new clothes, right?

The Bluu crowd is not exactly my kind of crowd – too sleek, too flash, too confident – but it's still a good place to drop in on every now and again, especially late on. There’s also a pretty good restaurant adjoining the upstairs bar - standard stuff, but nicely executed and not too expensive.

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